On this page:
Arraiolos stitching is an embroidery technique that has been practised for centuries. Associated with the town of Arraiolos in Portugal, this stitch type plays a significant role in the world of Portuguese culture and arts. In this article, we will explore the rich history, application, techniques, and cultural significance of the Arraiolos stitch.
What is an Arrailos rug?
An Arrailos rug is an embroidered wool rug made using Arrailos stitching, and it is a piece of textile work strongly associated with the town Arrailos. In Portugese, it is known as Tapete de Arrailos. In English, various terms are used in an overlapping fashion, including Arrailos rug, Arrailos carpet, and Arrailos tapestry.
The Arrailos rug is an example of a unique regional interpretation of rug making. It is believed to date back to at least the 15th century, although most of what we know about Arrailos rugs are from the 17th century or later. Notably, archeologists have found 13th century dye pots near Arrailos town square, but we do not know if they were used specifically for this type of rug production.
Arrailos rugs are made using an oblique cross stitch (or long legged cross stitch) that knots each stitch in place, and the embroiderer will use thick wool in rows of colour to create pixelated mofits. Historically, some carpet motifs were inspured by the local flora and fauna, while others depicted exotic themes borrowed from Moorish, Persian or other Muslim designs.
Traditionally, Arrailos rugs would usually have a single background color and a central mofit surrounded by a series of borders, and framed corner motifs could also be included in the design. Today, there are Arrailos rug creators who follow this tradition, but also those who break with it in various way.
In the 21st century, Arrailos rugs – both old and new – are much loved by needlepoint enthusiasts, and many visitors to Arrailos bring home a rug as a souvenir. They are still appreciated locally as well, and can be seen in many homes and churches in and around Arrailos.
The History of Arraiolos Stitch
The Arraiolos stitch dates back to the 15th century, partly influenced by the Moorish culture that prevailed in Portugal at the time. The early designs were heavily inspired by Persian carpets, characterized by intricate geometric patterns and rich, vivid colors. Over the years, the Arraiolos stitch has evolved, incorporating more floral designs and motifs, reflecting the changing tastes and styles of the eras.
The exact origins of the Arraiolos technique remains unknown, but the early styles, motifs and dyes often show inspiration from not only Moorish culture but also from other parts of the Islamic culture sphere, including Persia. Textiles from various parts of the Middle East were brought back to the Iberian peninsula by portuguese explorers and traders from the 1400s and onward.
For the Arraiolos rugs, some dyes were sourced locally, while others were imported. Dye stuff from many different corners of the Portuguese empire and trade network have been identified in old Arraiolos stitch work, including Brazil wood, logwood, woad, madder root, indigo, and cochineal.
Fort the fabrics, locally grown flax and wool from local sheep were used. In Arraiolos, a family could specialize in a certain step for the rug making process, e.g. raising sheep, processing wool, dyeing wool or flax, warping, designing carpets, or doing the actual stitching.
The production of Arrailos rugs began to falter in the late 1800s. Portugal was being invaded by France, and many portuguese industries – including artistic rug making – were negatively impacted. In the early 1900s, efforts were put into place to revive the Arrailos rug tradition and save it from going extinct. Among other things, a series of private Arrailos rug collections were exhibited in Lisbon, where rugmakers looking for know-how and artistic inspiration could see them.
The Technique of Arraiolos Stitching
Arraiolos stitch is a counted-thread embroidery style that uses wool yarn on jute or linen fabric. The basic stitch is a kind of slanted cross-stitch known as a diagonal stitch or tent stitch. The stitching starts from the center of the pattern and worked outwards, ensuring symmetry and balance in the design.
The embroidery is done using a tapestry needle, which has a blunt tip and a large eye. The needle does not pierce the threads of the fabric but rather, it is inserted between them, preserving the fabric’s integrity and preventing damage.
Applications of Arraiolos Stitch
Most famously, Arraiolos stitching is used to create stunning handmade carpets and rugs. However, its application isn’t limited to flooring. It is also used to create wall hangings, cushion covers, and even clothing accessories. The Arraiolos stitch’s versatility lends itself well to a variety of decorative and functional items, making it a popular embroidery technique in home décor and fashion.
Cultural Significance of Arraiolos Stitch
The Arraiolos stitch holds immense cultural significance within Portugal and beyond. It is a craft that is passed down through generations, contributing to the preservation of Portuguese heritage. Today, the town of Arraiolos is renowned worldwide for its carpets and rugs, attracting tourists and art enthusiasts from all over the globe to admire the handcrafted creations.
Centro Interpretativo do Tapete de Arrailos
Centro Interpretativo do Tapete de Arrailos (Arrailos Rug Interpretive Center) was opened in Arrailos in 2013 and has become an important focal point for the Arraiolos stitching tradition. The centre encourages research into Tapete de Arrailos and aims to help protect and recognize these textiles as a form of artistic and immaterial heritage.
The center exhibits a collection of Arraiolos textiles dating from the 17th century and onward.
Investigating these old textiles
Although some Arrailos textiles have survived from the 1600s and onward, may of them are faded and does not look like they used to when they were new. In the early 2010s it became possible to use scientific analysis to identify the original colors – giving us a better idea of how these textiles used to look.
During a research project, wool samples were taken from Arraiolos carpets held at the National Museum of Ancient Art in Lisbon; carpets dating form the 17th, 18th and 19th century. The samples were analyzed and the natural dyes and mordants identified. (A mordant is a substance, usually an inorganic oxide, that will combine with a dye or stain to fix it in a material.)
The analysis found that even though these carpets looks fairly muted today, they have once been showcasing a display of vibrant, saturated colours. In some cases, the colours have not just faded, but also shifted. For instance, areas that now looked like faded gold on some carpets were originally of a strong red colour.
The new information is put to use
During the Covid19 pandemic, the Portuguese government commissioned a series of new Arrailos rugs to be made utilizing the information unveiled by the research project. Local artisans were employed and new rugs were created for museum collections. This helped spread the information about how vibrant Arrailos rugs looked in the past.
Final Thoughts
The Arraiolos stitch is a testament to human creativity, skill, and artistic expression. Its rich history, unique technique, wide applications, and cultural significance make it a fascinating topic for both art enthusiasts and casual observers.
Whether you’re a seasoned embroiderer looking to expand your skill set or an art lover interested in learning about different cultures, the Arraiolos stitch is a captivating subject. Understanding its nuances and appreciating its beauty can provide a deeper understanding of Portuguese culture and the art of embroidery as a whole.